Rainy days and Sundays

I am lucky that I have one of those 9-5 jobs...heck, in this economy, I'm lucky to have a job, full-stop.  Anyway, my work schedule is great...Monday-Friday...and when I go home, work stays at work.

Work is getting freakishly busy, and I have started to help out the designers.  It is challenging work...a good kind of challenging.  But this helping out has led to my doing some weekend work...and that isn't something I'm used to.  As a result, I don't feel like I actually had a weekend, and that day off I was supposed to have this week has been cancelled.  I know that a certain amount of stress is healthy...but work coupled with other commitments I've made is starting to raise the needle in that pressure gauge that, to be honest, is generally higher than it should be...but this too shall pass.  There is a light at the end of the tunnel...8 little letters that keep me hanging on....V-A-C-A-T-I-O-N.

I am approaching my first vacation in 8 years, and have found that I am filled with giddy excitement at the prospect.  It isn't like I'm taking off for some tropical destination...or a whirlwind European trek.  I'm going to Thunder Bay, Ontario...a city that would take me over 17 hours to drive to if I chose to drive instead of fly...but it isn't about where I'm going, really...at this point, it is just about GOING.  One of my closest friends lives there, and that is the main reason for my trip...but I am looking forward to having a change of scenery, a bit of silence...an afternoon nap...curling up with a book...having a few days where I don't have to answer the phone every time it rings, and where I don't have to stare at a computer screen all day.  I desperately need to recharge my batteries...and I'm getting to the point where it's a necessity to do so.

I had a touch of recharging on Sunday. The family was away, so the house was quiet.  It also rained all day, so there was that calm that comes with the rain, as well as that cozy feeling of being inside where it was warm.  That meant it was time for me to make a batch of what I call "Chicken and Dumplings, Sans Dumplings"...for you non-French-speakers, "sans" means "without".  I'm not a huge fan of dumplings, but also, I make the batch to freeze...and I don't think I want frozen dumplings.  What I normally do is make my great-grandmother's tea biscuits (a recipe that you won't find here...it will go with me to the grave).  It is the perfect thing for a cold rainy day...or a cold snowy day...or for a sunny yet cool day....any day, really!

Now, my pre-recipe warnings:

1.  Even though I don't make the dumplings (the main reason for rendering out fat when you brown the thighs and the skin), I still brown the chicken for the sake of building fond on the bottom of the pot.  And as we should all know, fond=flavour.  Don't skip this step thinking it is unimportant.  Also, I tend to put the lid on the pot at this point to minimize oil splatters all over my stove.

2.  Not being a big onion fan (as I've rambled on about before), I grate the onion because I don't want pieces of it floating around...and I used something closer to a small onion.  I add in extra carrots and celery, and cut them a bit bigger than described so that they don't completely cook down to nothing.

3.  The recipe originally calls for 4 tablespoons of oil, and for the thighs to be cooked in 2 batches.  Well, to get to 5 pounds of chicken thighs, I had to cook 20 thighs (they were very small, obviously).  And here is the truth...the fat that renders as you cook each batch is plenty...I only used 2 teaspoons for that first batch, and was fine from there.  Just don't overcrowd the pan...take as many batches as you need.  It is time consuming, but the end justifies the means.

4.  When you nestle the chicken thighs back into the liquid, you will actually trap onions, celery, and carrots under them...which means they will have the tendency to get welded to the bottom of the pot.  This isn't so bad, as it creates a nice flavour...the key is to get it scraped off at the point where you take the chicken out to shred it up.  I just take a plastic lifter with a thin edge, and work it around the bottom of the pot until you can feel that it's all freed.  Just stir it around, and it will all basically dissolve into the liquid, and add great flavour...and will save your muscles from scrubbing the pot at the dish-washing stage!

Chicken and Dumplings, Sans Dumplings

5 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
4 tablespoons butter (1/2 stick)
4 carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 ribs celery , sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 large onion , minced
6 tablespoons flour
4 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves, or about 1/2 teaspoon dried
2 bay leaves

Pat the chicken dry with paper towels, then season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add half of the chicken and cook until golden on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and remove the browned skin.  Repeat with the rest of the chicken, cooking in batches.  When done, pour oil out of pot, being careful to not dispose to of fond.

Add the butter to the Dutch oven and melt over medium-high heat. Add the carrots, celery, onion, and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 7 minutes.  Stir in the flour.

Stir in the broth, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan.  Add milk, thyme, and bay leaves. Nestle the chicken, with any accumulated juices, into the pot. Cover and simmer until the chicken is fully cooked and tender, about 1 hour.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Discard the bay leaves. Allow the sauce to settle for a few minutes, then skim the fat from the surface using a wide spoon. Shred the chicken, discarding the bones, then return it to the stew.

 

Good-bye, Summer.....

This was a summer to beat all summers....hot, humid, very little rain.  I'm generally not a fan of summer...I prefer autumn's moderate temperatures, vivd colours, and clear air.

But before the kitchen starts to revolve around pears, apples, and soups and stews, I thought I'd take one last look at summer, and make a Peach Upside-Down Cake.

Growing up around my saintly grandmother, I learned all kinds of things about peach varieties.  Her absolute favourites were Redhavens because they coloured the preserving syrup nicely.  So, when I went to the grocery store to find 4 peaches for the upside down cake, there were some very unripe "regular" peaches, and some ripe white-flesh peaches...no idea the variety...so I thought I'd give them a whirl.

The only time I had ever seen anyone use white peaches was on an episode of Nigella Lawson's Forever Summer show...she poached them in their skins, and the beautiful pinkness dyed the flesh...they were beautiful.  But I had no idea about the flavour.

They were...OK.  They weren't overly peachy in flavour.  They would do in a pinch, but just barely.  It's just like having California strawberries in the middle of winter...they aren't anywhere close to the local berries we get in June, but they're better than not having any at all.  If you decide to make this cake, hold out for full-flavoured peaches if you can still get them, or wait until next year.

Also, be sure that the peaches aren't sliced too thick, as there is a good deal of batter to deal with, and you don't want to overfill the cake pan (mine was pretty full, but luckily, it didn't overflow when baking).

One last thing...when making the caramel mixture, be sure to wait until you have a good flowing liquid...and if you are using a fairly new, really good non-stick pan, spreading the stuff out will be a bit of a nightmare, as it will just float in a massive puddle around the bottom of the pan.  The plus is that it hardens into a very hard candy...very like a Werther's caramel.  I'd also put a shake or 2 of salt in there to make it less flat-tasting.

Peach Upside-Down Cake

1 stick (1/2 cup) butter, at room temperature, plus more for the pan
1 1/2 cups sugar
4 small fresh peaches, pitted and sliced
2 cups all-purpose flour 
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup whole milk (3.25%) 

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly butter a 9-inch-round cake pan. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tbsp water and then add 3/4 cup sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, until smooth and deep golden brown, 8 to 11 minutes. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and tilt to coat the bottom. Arrange the peach wedges snugly in the bottom of the pan in a single layer, cutting to fit if needed.

 

Next, combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl, and stir until incorporated.

 

Beat the remaining 7 tablespoons butter and 3/4 cup sugar in a large bowl with a mixer on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the vanilla extract. Beat in the flour mixture in 3 batches, alternating with the milk and beginning and ending with the flour mixture; beat in each addition until just incorporated.

 

Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan and bake until golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool 30 minutes. Invert onto a plate and let cool completely.  

 

 

Life is not a spectator sport...

That full Jackie Robinson quote is, "Life is not a spectator sport. If you're going to spend your whole life in the grandstand just watching what goes on, in my opinion you're wasting your life."

I hate being watched...which is perhaps slightly ironic as I spend a good part of my time as a performing musician. However, I'm the kind of musician who believes it is important to be heard, and not necessarily seen.

When I'm in the kitchen, I like to be alone in there...in the whole house, to be honest. I have a very tiny kitchen, so even the smallest culinary adventure creates a huge mess. I find it's better to try new things or make large batches of things to freeze when there is no one home to witness the kitchen massacre...by the time they all get home, the dishes are done (we have no dishwasher...I've been handwashing for decades, it seems), and everything is spic and span again.

This weekend, I was sitting in a blissfully empty house, and decided I was going to try a new recipe...and decided on Chicken Milanese (chicken cutlets that have grated parmesan in the crust). So not only a new recipe, but I'd also never fried anything in a substantial quantity of oil before.

It was ridiculously easy. So easy that if it wasn't so unhealthy, I'd cook that way every day! The end product was delicious, and it cooked so quickly...I was shocked.

Some warnings before I get to the recipe:

1. Add some spices that you like either to the crumbs or flour...I enjoyed the flavour of the chicken, but it didn't taste much of anything else.

2. Feel free to leave out the parmesan cheese...or take some risks and add more than the recipe calls for, as there was no flavour of the cheese at all.

3. Splurge and use panko crumbs...super crispy, and delicious.

Chicken Milanese

4 boneless skinless chicken breasts (5 to 6 ounces each), tenderloins removed and reserved for another use

1/2 cup kosher salt or 1/4 cup table salt

1/2 cup granulated sugar

4 - 6 slices white bread (about 1 1/4 cups fresh bread crumbs) such as Pepperidge Farm, crusts removed and torn into rough 1 1/2-inch pieces

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Ground black pepper

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3/4 cup vegetable oil

Lemon wedges for serving

Pound chicken breasts to even 1/2-inch thickness. Dissolve salt and sugar in 1 quart cold water in gallon-size zipper-lock plastic bag. Add cutlets and seal bag, pressing out as much air as possible; refrigerate 30 minutes. Line rimmed baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels.

Remove cutlets and lay in single layer on baking sheet; cover with another triple layer of paper towels and press firmly to absorb moisture. Allow cutlets to dry for 10 minutes. Process bread in food processor until evenly fine-textured, 20 to 30 seconds (you should have about 1 1/4 cups fresh bread crumbs). Mix in Parmesan cheese and transfer crumbs to baking dish. Carefully peel paper towels off cutlets, sprinkle cutlets with pepper, and set aside.

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, set large heatproof plate on rack, and heat oven to 200 degrees. Spread flour in baking dish. Beat eggs with 1 tablespoon oil in second baking dish. Spread bread crumbs in third baking dish.

Bread the cutlets, one at a time. Dredge cutlet in flour, shaking off excess. Using tongs, dip both sides of cutlet in egg mixture, allowing excess to drip back into baking dish to ensure very thin coating. Dip both sides of cutlet in bread crumbs, pressing crumbs with fingers to form even, cohesive coat. Place breaded cutlets in single layer on wire rack set over baking sheet and allow coating to dry for about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 6 tablespoons remaining oil in heavy-bottomed 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking, about 2 minutes. Lay two cutlets gently in skillet; cook until deep golden brown and crisp on first side, gently pressing down on cutlets with wide metal spatula to help ensure even browning, about 2 1/2 minutes. Using tongs, flip cutlets, reduce heat to medium, and continue to cook until meat feels firm when pressed gently and second side is deep golden brown and crisp, 2 1/2 to 3 minutes longer.

Line warmed plate with double layer of paper towels and set cutlets on top; return plate to oven.

Discard oil in skillet and wipe skillet clean using tongs and large wad of paper towels. Repeat step 5 using remaining 6 tablespoons oil and now-clean skillet to cook remaining cutlets; serve along with first batch with lemon wedges.

The right tools for the job...

I have a problem...some would call it serious...most would say that I am in denial about the severity of the problem.  There are no support groups, nor is there a medical treatment...I'm afraid it's incurable.

I am addicted to buying kitchen gadgets...wow...that was hard to say...

It started, very innocently with a garlic press.  I suppose that was really a gateway gadget...it has led me to a potato ricer, fluted pastry wheel, and ramekins...through to electric things like an immersion blender, to large things like a Kitchenaid stand mixer...and my latest purchase...but first, some background...

As I've said before, my grandmother could cook/bake anything...and without fancy shmancy gadgets.  She used to get 2" thick meringue on her lemon meringue pie, and did it with a hand-held rotary egg beater that she'd had since the 1950s...and she wasn't using cream of tartar, either.  When she made pie crust, she used a bowl, and her hands...nothing else.

My paternal grandmother was a bit of a mystery to me.  As she and my dad didn't have a good relationship, I didn't see her very often, despite her only living about 30 minutes away.  I do know that she was a good baker.

She passed away in 1992, and there was a lot of sorting/cleaning out required in her apartment.  Many of the elderly ladies who lived in the same apartment complex came by asking about the food processor that she'd used to make her pastry.  Upon looking around, no such food processor was found...and there was a good reason for that....my dad had already put it in our trunk.

And friends, that food processor stayed in the same place in our basement from February 1992 until about 1 month ago when I used it for the first time.  It was a 4-cup Moulinex that was so old it could have been Noah's....but Noah wouldn't have wanted to use it due to the sheer noise of the thing.  I used it to make pie crust, and it worked pretty well...the blade could have been sharper, and the bowl was nowhere near big enough...so it was time to upgrade.  Being a devotee of Cook's Illustrated, I knew that the former winner of the food processor test was the Kitchenaid KFP750...but it has been discontinued.  So I hit eBay to see what I could find.

Luckily, I found one, and very affordable...and I could actually go and pick it up, so that saved on shipping costs.  When I got there, however, they couldn't find the item I had purchased...so I got an upgrade to the KFPW760...essentially the same machine but with a wider feed tube.

The thing works like a dream...powerful, large capacity (12-cup), and decently quiet.  I don't know how I managed without it...and the idea of using a pastry cutter now seems barbaric.

So, if you're still out there making meringue with an egg-beater, and pastry with your hands, I commend you...you're more patient than I am.

Hello.  My name is Deb...and I'm a kitchen-gadget-aholic.